Archive for the ‘Fall Pest Control Problems’ Category

Ant: The Carpenter Ant

Wednesday, November 18th, 2009

Carpenter ants are one of many species of ants. Even though carpenter ants look similar to many of the other species they have their own physical characteristics that differentiate them from other ants. Also,of carpenter ants are often confused with termites. The best way to differentiate carpenter ants from another kind of ant is the carpenter ant only has one segment between it’s thorax and abdomen; also, the thorax is evenly rounded. Some carpenter ants are winged and this physical aspect confuses them with termites. The carpenter ants wings are different sizes, with the front wings being larger in size than the back wings. While the termites wings are the same size. Another physical characteristic that confuses people as to if it’s a carpenter ant or a termite is their antennae. The carpenter ant’s antennae are elbowed, where they look like they bend in the middle. The termite’s antennae are straight. These two simple physical traits of wings and antennae can confuse people, but knowing the difference will help homeowners correctly identify their pest problem.

ant carpenter ants

Carpenter ants have distinctive physical traits like the antennae being elbowed, and only one segment between the thorax and the abdomen. Both of these traits are visible in this picture.

The black- to red-toned carpenter ant is a hard worker, depending on it’s role within the colony that is. Ranging from three eights of an inch to a half of an inch, and sometimes larger, the carpenter ant does a lot with it’s little body. Whether the ant is a worker, a swarmer, a Queen, or a male, their size is contributed to their title. There are two varieties of workers, the larger worker is called a major and the smaller worker is called a minor. A swarmer is a winged reproductive carpenter ant. Queens are all usually about the same size, and there may be more than one Queen per colony. Males are used just for reproducing.

ant carpenter ants

These carpenter ants are swarmers. All swarmers have wings.

While males are used mainly for reproducing, Queens do just the same. Queens stay in the colony and lay eggs. In the late summer the eggs the Queen lays are males and more Queens, these eggs will hatch in early spring. Then these carpenter ants will reproduce once they are adults. Other eggs that the Queen lays throughout the year are females that become worker ants. The eggs take about three weeks to hatch into larvae. Once they are larvae they take about another three weeks to develop into pupa. From the pupa stage to adult it will be about another three weeks. The timing of all these stages may vary depending on the climate the carpenter ants are in at the time. During the carpenter ants development once it becomes a pupa worker ants come and take all the pupa to a satellite colony where the workers will take care of them. With Queens having so many babies the colony grows and grows over time. With in two to four years there can be hundreds of workers within a colony, and just a few years more there can be thousands of workers within a colony.

A kind of ironic fact abut carpenter ants is that they don’t eat wood. This is ironic because the colony that carpenter ants build is most often in some form of wood. They like to live in moist wood, rotting trees, tree stumps, logs, firewood, near tubs, near sinks, near showers, near dishwashers, under roofing, in attic beams, hallow spaces like doors, curtain rods, wall voids, and foam insulation. With a favorite living space being wood and the fact that carpenter ants make tunnels or galleries within the wood to form their colonies many people assume they eat wood.

ant carpenter ants

Here is a small nest found outside a house. The nest is in the wood of the patio.

Another common thing that confuses people as to if they have ants or termites in their house is that they both live in wood, and eat it. While the carpenter ant may live within wood and obviously has to destroy the wood to make its home it does not actually eat the wood, but many people think carpenter ants do eat the wood like termites do. Piles of what looks like sawdust, called frass, are left near the colony. Carpenter ants move it away from the colony once they have built their home so that people can’t find their nest right away. This confuses people even more because they assume the wood has been eaten by the carpenter ants and do not know where the piles of frass have come from.

Since the carpenter ants do not eat wood they find many other sources of food to eat. Carpenter ants go out to look for food usually around sunset and may stay out scavenging until midnight. Carpenter ants will even go as far as 100 yards away from their colony in order to find food. Proteins and sugars like meat, tuna in water, syrup, honeydew, honey, sugar, jelly, and other sweets are all favorites of the carpenter ants to eat. People can often find carpenter ants in their homes looking for food. This confuses people and makes them think they have an ant problem, when really there are just a few ants inside looking for food. Although there may be an infestation of carpenter ants the best thing to do to determine if there is a problem or not is to find the colony.

ant carpenter ants

Here are two carpenter ants feeding on a grape.

Pictures courtesy of www.creativecommons.org

Yellow Jacket: First Aid For a Yellow Jacket Sting

Wednesday, November 18th, 2009

Like bee stings, the yellow jacket is the most harmful to a person if they are allergic to the yellow jacket’s venom. Overall the first aid for a bee sting or a yellow jacket sting is very similar. If you see a yellow jacket near you and fear being stung do not try to swat at it nor get up right away to take cover. Any kind of fast unexpected movement could actually make the yellow jacket sting you. The best things to do are slowly put your hands over your face and wait or get up slowly and go indoors or somewhere secure. Of course not being stung is the best scenario anyone could ask for, but there is a chance it could happen. The one differentiating factor of bees and yellow jackets is actually the most terrifying thing about their stings. Yellow jackets can sting a person over and over again because their stinger has no barbs, and they travel in groups. So there is a high risk of being stung, and then possibly getting stung multiple times. If you are unable to protect yourself and get stung there are a few basic steps to follow to help with the pain.

  • Venom will be released into the sting while it happens. If allergic there may be a strong reaction.
  • Reaction will appear within 20 minutes to two hours.
  • No matter if you’re allergic or not the sting will be painful and will swell up and turn red.
  • Allergic symptoms that one would experience are a rash, difficulty breathing, difficulties swallowing, cough, tightness of chest, and or slurred speech.
  • If any of these symptoms become present it is best to go to a doctor immediately.
  • If you are stung and are not allergic or symptoms have not become apparent, apply a poultice made up of some form of meat tenderizer to the wound to help with the inflammation.
  • Take an antihistamine to reduce the reaction from the sting.
  • If these steps do not help go to a doctor as soon as you can to help aid the sting.

Yellow Jacket Wasps: The Yellow Jackets Life Cycle

Thursday, November 5th, 2009

Yellow jacket wasps have a busy life to lead, and unfortunately life doesn’t last long for them. On average, the yellow jacket will live for about a year. The yellow jacket wasp’s life has a lot of order to it, and they seem to work so hard all year. In a way, yellow jackets are similar to people as they work through out the day to make the Queen (boss lady) happy and then at night retire to their home and rest up for the next day. Even before yellow jackets become full adults they start to follow the order of life within the colony. Starting in the spring time the order of the colony begins like this:

  • Queens come out from hibernating and select a new spot to make a nest.
  • Sometimes worker yellow jacket may have survived the winter if they found a warm place to stay, but it is very rare.
  • The Queen will lay her eggs. Eggs are also referred to as brood cells and she lays 30-50.
  • Once the eggs hatch the Queen will feed the larvae for up to three weeks.
  • Larvae pupate into small infertile females, workers.
  • Up to the first ten workers that appear will become rearers and feeders for the brood.
  • As the workers grow they will eventually become pestiferous in August-September.
  • In the summer the first adult workers to emerge will be given the tasks of expanding the nest, getting food, taking care of the queen and any larvae, and defending the colony.
  • Part of taking care of the larvae includes feeding them. Adults will find meat for the larvae then chew and condition the meat and feed it to the larvae. In return the larvae secrete a sugar substance that the adults love to eat. This give and take exchange is known as trophallaxis.
  • While the queen is inside the nest she lays more eggs. When these eggs hatch they become males and queens.
  • Once the new males and queens emerge they will mate, shortly after mating the males will die.
  • The queen will then start to look for a place to hibernate. She likes to find a protective place such as in stumps or logs, with in stacks of firewood, under bark, and or attics of homes to hibernate.
  • During the fall parent colony workers begin to dwindle away and die. The foundress queen will also dwindle away, as the new queen will be hibernating at this time.
  • Since the nest has been abandoned at this point it will decompose and disintegrate, this also occurs due to the weather.
  • Then when spring rolls around the cycle will just repeat itself.
  • Also a new nest is always built, the yellow jackets will never go back into an old nest, yet they might build a new one very close to the old one.
yellow jacket wasps life cycle

Here are some eggs and larvae that are still in a nest that has been destroyed. The brighter white parts are the larvae, and the yellow-clear parts are eggs.

yellow jacket wasp life cycle

In this picture the yellow-clear sacs on the far right are the eggs. To the left are some yellow jackets that have developed and hatched.

Pictures courtesy of www.creativecommons.org

Yellow Jacket: One Variety of Wasps

Wednesday, November 4th, 2009

The yellow jacket is a type of wasp that many people mistake for the honey bee. Yellow jackets are small ranging from half an inch to three-fourths of an inch long. The body of the yellow jacket has a defined waist and long legs, and the body is covered in bands of yellow and black. The similar coloring and small shape of the yellow jacket and honey bees is what most often confuses people.

yellow jacket wasp

Fruits that have fallen to the ground are a great food source for yellow jackets. Make sure to pick up fruit once it falls from your trees.

Unlike bees these wasps eat more than pollen. Yellow jackets do enjoy sweet things, but more so when they are in the adult stage of their lives. As larvae, yellow jackets are known for eating meat. In most cases they eat the meat of other insects like flies, crickets, caterpillars, and other plant eating insects. The adult yellow jacket will actually catch the insects for the larvae and chew and condition the meat before the larvae eat it. This is actually a good thing about yellow jackets. Due to the fact that larvae eat meat, and adults will hunt plant-eating insects; the yellow jackets are actually helping control another pest control problem.

Even though yellow jackets are helping kill bad bugs they still can be bad pests themselves. Adult yellow jackets don’t eat meat like the larvae, they actually like sweet things like nectar, fruit, and other sweet human food. The yellow jackets also eat a secretion that the larvae produce. It may sound funny and weird, but as the larvae feeds on meat they produce a sweet sugar substance that secretes through their skin; this is a special treat that adult yellow jackets relish. Another type of sweet substance the adult yellow jackets enjoy eating is human food, which they normally find during picnics, barbecues, or any outside dinning. Favorite choices of the yellow jackets are soda, ciders, fruit juices, ice cream, candy, burgers, hot dogs, and even fish. When ever dining outside it is best to keep everything covered as much as possible, even the not-so-sweet items. Yellow jackets will go for anything including the meat because they can feed it to the larvae.

yellow jacket nest

Here is a yellow jacket nest that has been made on a tree. Having a yellow jacket nest out in your yard on a tree is better than close to your home.

yellow jacket nest

This yellow jacket nest was built on the side on a home. This is what homeowners do not want to happen, the further away the nest the better.

The worst part of trying to enjoy food outdoors is that yellow jacket wasps make their nests in so many different places you never know how close they’ll be to your food. Nests can be found anywhere from hollow trees, trees, shrubs, animal or rodent burrows, rock walls, under landscape timbers or heavy mulch, protected areas, under porches, eaves of homes, flooring, hollow walls, and attics. Yellow jacket wasps use pieces of wood and saliva to make their nests. Yellow jackets take the paper looking material they’ve made and use it to build the nest that forms multiple tiers of vertical cells, and there is a small hole in the bottom of the nest so yellow jacket wasps can fly in and out of the nest. The nest of the yellow jackets is a huge part of their lives. The life cycle of the yellow jackets is simple and repeats every year and one component of their lives is the nest. Read more on the details on the yellow jacket life cycle, to see just how important the nest is to the yellow jackets. If you do find a yellow jacket nest anywhere on your property or in your house call your local pest control to come out to your house.

Although there are do-it-yourself remedies, the safest choice is to call an exterminator. If you try to do any at home pest control there is always the risk of provoking the yellow jackets to attack. Sometimes people will try to capture the nests at night while the yellow jackets are sleeping. This is still risky because you could wake up the yellow jackets. They are like people and are out working in the day and stay in at night. Another at home thing people do to try to get rid of the yellow jacket wasps is called a water trap. This is safer for people to do as there is no physical contact with the yellow jackets until they are trapped and most likely dead. The water trap consists of hanging a piece of fish or liver above a container of water, and the water has to have some type of soap mixed in like laundry detergent. The food they try taking will be too heavy for them to carry and they will fall into the surrounding water below and drown. To ensure the yellow jackets are dead some people will then freeze the water.

yellow jacket

Knowing what yellow jacket wasps look like is helpful in order to avoid them. Here is a yellow jacket up close.

If you are outdoors and come across yellow jackets or their nest just avoid them all together. Doing this is really the best way to prevent any problems from happening with yellow jacket wasps. Like some other pests, yellow jackets will leave people alone as long as people do not bother or provoke them. Fast movements and loud noises can bother yellow jackets and provoke them to attack. This can be very bad as yellow jackets travel/hunt in colonies so there is high chance that there is going to be more than one yellow jacket after you. Even doing yard work with electrical devices can provoke yellow jackets, so if you know there is a nest outside wear protective gear or call your local pest control. Of course there are times where people do not mean to provoke yellow jackets, but do on accident. This usually happens when people see a yellow jacket wasp near them and try to swat at it, the fast movement of an arm will scare the yellow jacket and provoke it into attack mode. Even though people are scared the safest thing to do to avoid being stung is to slowly put your hands over your face and wait. Once the yellow jacket is gone you’re safe, and you most likely have escaped with out a sting. In the case that you do get stung see our first aid tips for yellow jacket stings.

Picture courtesy of www.creativecommons.org

Cockroach: Preventing the Oriental Cockroach from Getting Inside Your Home

Wednesday, November 4th, 2009

Preventing oriental cockroaches can be very easy. It is mostly about maintaining a clean house and yard. Also of course, making sure there are no entry points from the outside into your home. Overall the oriental cockroach’s habitat needs to be modified. Here are the basic steps to help prevent oriental cockroaches from getting into your home.

  • Keep your home clean and dry.
  • Vacuum often, make sure to get the corners and in dark places like closets.
  • Fix any plumbing leaks you may have and keep moist spaces ventilated.
  • If there are any gaps near plumbing pipes, cables, or anything of that manner fill the gaps with steel wool or caulk.
  • Check around the foundation of the home and fill any openings, holes, or cracks that are visible. Pay special attention to the ground level. Also sometimes it is best to look at dusk when oriental cockroaches will start to come out to look for food.
  • Decaying leaves and organic matter should be removed from windows and doors.
  • Keep garbage cans outdoors, but away from moist areas.
  • Do not leave trash bags that are filled lying around, put them in a proper trash can because oriental cockroaches will eat through the plastic.
  • Drain traps should be capped.
  • Install door sweeps, thresholds, and weatherproofing seals on doors, including garage doors.
  • Add screens to your attic vents, crawl spaces, floor drains, and any other exposed areas.
  • On your windows make sure to have screens and weatherproof them as well.
  • Outside of your home keep all trash cans, firewood, and lumber away from the house, at least three feet. You just don’t want it set up right next to the house.
  • If you have any mulch in your front or backyard keep it at or below two inches thick.
  • Mow any weedy vegetation near the structure of the home or any other structures on your property.
  • Keep basements and crawl spaces ventilated, and free of clutter.
  • Maintain keeping gutters clean, another source of moisture for oriental cockroaches to feed on.
  • Keep branches and bushes from touching your house.
  • Place sticky traps around, indoors and outdoors. Pesticides don’t always work because the oriental cockroaches may have already eaten, and can go for some time with out food. So trying to get them to eat poison is pointless.

Cockroach: The Oriental Cockroach

Thursday, October 29th, 2009

Cockroaches are all over the world, one of the more common species in the U.S. is the oriental cockroach. Known as the dirtiest species of all of the cockroaches, the oriental cockroach is pretty gross. Not only is it disgusting to look at it, it even smells bad. Ranging from an inch to an inch-and-a-quarter long the oval-shaped oriental cockroach hides out in homes and backyards searching for food. In the case of food for the oriental cockroach – anything goes. The oriental cockroach’s diet consists of things like garbage, plant material, animal material, decaying matter, and sewage. As mentioned, anything goes when it comes to the oriental cockroach. The oriental cockroach can survive up to a month without food. On the other hand, the oriental cockroach can not go more than two weeks without water.

Some cockroaches fly and some do not. The oriental cockroach has wings, but it does not fly. The female’s wings are short and the male’s wings cover its body. But even with these wings they can not take flight. The oriental cockroach can be a reddish to dark brown to a black tone, usually the older ones are darker in color; they also are shiny or glossy looking.

cockroach oriental cockroach

This picture shows both sexes of the oriental cockroach. The male is on the far left, then the female, and then some oriental cockroaches in the nymph stage.

Based on their appearance they have have also been given other names, the black beetle and the water bug. The oriental cockroach gets the water bug name from where it is often found, near water. The oriental cockroach likes to live in damp and dark places. Aside from the fact that the oriental cockroach has two other names this gross creature has actually been around way before people. It is said that the cockroaches are one of the most successful animals since they have been around for nearly 300 million years.

cockroach oriental cockroach

Here is what the egg sac or oothecae looks like, on the left. On the right is a young oriental cockroach nymph.

One factor of how the oriental cockroach is such a high populated species today is that they re-populate often. A female oriental cockroach will get pregnant anywhere from once to eight times with in her life. Each time this occurs she lays up to 16 eggs which are deposited into a sac, also called an oothecae. The female will carry her oothecae around with her for up to 24 to 36 hours, after this time she will find a spot to leave the oothecae. The oothecae is usually left near a food supply, so when the nymphs come out of the sac they are near some food. Also the mother will want to leave her oothecae somewhere where it will be safe, so she looks for cracks or crevices to leave the sac. The eggs will stay in the oothecae for up to two months, depending on the environment. Once they have developed enough they will leave the sac, and are now nymphs. The nymphs are left to survive on their own, because the mother really does just leave her oothecae full of eggs and never comes back. Unlike many other insects the oriental cockroach nymphs looks a lot like an adult oriental cockroach, and is usually more of a reddish tone than a black tone. During the nymph stage the oriental cockroach will shed its skin seven to ten times before the nymph becomes an adult. As an adult the oriental cockroach will live up to six months to a year and a half. Then the cycle will just repeat itself.

Unfortunately, oriental cockroaches are slow movers, and it can take some time for them to get from one location to another. This also is a problem if a person finds an oriental cockroach and wants to kill it. Many times people will think that the oriental cockroach is going to take flight and fly away because they have wings on their bodies, but remember they do not actually fly. Therefore, the best thing an oriental cockroach can do is to hide. Also unlike other pests the oriental cockroach does not have sticky pads on their feet. This makes it challenging for the oriental cockroach to go certain places because they can not climb up smooth surfaces.

cockroach oriental cockroach

Here is an oriental cockroach outside crawling through some leaves on the ground.

People often find oriental cockroaches near any type of decaying organic matter (trash, compost), sewers, drains, damp basements, porches, under sinks, under washing machines, crawlspaces, and or floor drains. A common thread of all of these locations is that there is water near all of these spots. Also the oriental cockroach can find many places to live that are often in backyards or frontyards of homes. Oriental cockroaches like to live in bushes, under leaf ground cover, under mulch, anywhere damp, under porches, around shrubs, around flowers, near garbage cans or chutes, and under or in firewood piles. Knowing these are popular places for oriental cockroaches to live make sure to pay extra attention when you are near these spots. Some of the other locations mentioned can be found inside a home, and no one wants oriental cockroaches inside their home. A problem that can happen even if the oriental cockroach is living outside of your home is that the oriental cockroach can get easily brought in on accident. Oriental cockroaches get into homes by crawling on or into food packages, laundry (if your laundry room is outside of the main house), doors, air ducts, garbage chutes, plumbing, window jams, openings in foundation, and or ventilators. The oriental cockroach will try to get inside homes during droughts in search of water and when the weather cools down in search of warmth and food. Once inside your home the oriental cockroach can cause major problems.

The scary part about the problems oriental cockroaches can cause is that the actually harm people and not things. There is rarely any real physical damage left behind from oriental cockroaches. One thing that might actually be left behind is feces, which is a huge problem. The feces of an oriental cockroach have allergens in it, and this can make people have allergy problems or worse yet asthma. Also the skin cast from molting has allergens in it, so finding either one of these can be harmful for people, especially children. The allergens are more of an airborne problem, while the oriental cockroach is still able to get people sick just by crawling around a home.

This oriental cockroach looks to be crawling on some tile inside of a home. If you do find an oriental cockroach inside your home call your local pest control.

This oriental cockroach looks to be crawling on some tile inside of a home. If you do find an oriental cockroach inside your home call your local pest control.

The oriental cockroach is constantly secreting bacteria, viruses, and diseases from their bodies. As the oriental cockroach roams around they are constantly contaminating everything they touch. From the counter tops where food is prepared to the bowl of fruit to the dishes and utensils in the kitchen, these are all things that can be contaminated by oriental cockroaches and make people really sick. As the oriental cockroach moves the secretions fall off its body and onto whatever may be below, and if the item gets into the hands of a person with the contaminates still on it the person can become very ill. Washing all exposed fruits and vegetables is very important, also keep counter tops and tables thoroughly clean. The hard thing for people is that you can not see that the food or counters have actually been contaminated, so you may never know if things have been contaminated or not. This happens because oriental cockroaches are nocturnal so they come out at night, and the homeowners will not know if there were oriental cockroaches on their table or in their kitchen. It is best to assume they could be there every night and to clean everything in the morning before breakfast. Or better yet if traces of feces are found or even an oriental cockroach call your local pest control company to eliminate the problem. Although there are many things people can do to keep oriental cockroaches from even getting inside their home so they don’t have to worry about the harm oriental cockroaches can cause. Read more for tips on preventing oriental cockroaches, on our blog.

Pictures courtesy of www.creativecommons.org

Beetle: Carpet Beetles

Wednesday, October 21st, 2009

Carpet beetles are not really harmful to people, they are more harmful to the possessions that people love. Carpet beetles do not just live in carpets per se, they can actually be found in many different areas of a home. The problem that occurs with carpet beetles is with what they feed on. Yes, depending on the material carpet beetles can and will feed on carpets; but, there are many other things within a home that are food for carpet beetles. Many times the things carpet beetles feed on can be either very valuable or invaluable to a person. In any case no one wants any of their possessions to be damaged because these beetles are hungry. To give you a better idea of what kind of possessions can be damaged here is a list of the more popular food items for carpet beetles: wool, fur, feathers, hair, horns, silk, velvet, felts, dog / cat food, flour, cake mixes, cereals, grain, seeds, bone, rayon, linen, cotton, leather, and dead insects. Many of these materials are used to make items that can be found within a home. For instance, a woman’s favorite fur coat, silk pajamas, furniture, an oriental rug, a babies stuffed animal, a mounted elk head, Christmas decorations, and sheets. Of course these items are not found in every home, but it gives you an idea of some items that can very valuable to people that they might not want to be destroyed by carpet beetles.

beetle carpet beetles

Here is an adult carpet beetle on a flower, most likely on it's way to eat some pollen.

There are actually a few different popular varieties of carpet beetles. The four most common varieties of carpet beetles are the varied carpet beetle, the furniture carpet beetle, the black carpet beetle, and the common carpet beetle. Over all the different varieties are similar for the most part, and vary more so when it comes to physical characteristics.

An interesting fact about the carpet beetle is that the most damage done with in a home is actually done by the larvae, not the adult carpet beetle. The larvae can be in the larval stage of development longer than the adult will end up living. Most often an adult carpet beetle will lay her eggs inside of a home, near a food source. The female can lay up to 100 eggs; the eggs will take about 15-30 days to hatch, and this depends on the climate of where the eggs are. Once the eggs hatch they have become larvae; and, they will immediately begin feeding on a food source. The larvae stage can last anywhere form 60 days to two years. Like the egg stage, it all depends on the climate the larvae are in. They will move around from room to room within a house in search of food, although they can survive for weeks without food. While traveling in a home the larvae try their hardest to stay away from light. They look for dark, secluded, and undisturbed places for food.

beetle carpet beetles

These are skin shells of carpet beetles. When people find skin shells they often think it's an actual carpet beetle.

During the larvae development the skin will shed many times. As this molting takes place the shell of the skin is left behind, depending on where the molting occurs this is often how homeowners discover they have a carpet beetle problem. By seeing the skin shells is the most frequent way to realizing your home has been infested by carpet beetles. After the larvae has molted enough skin it will become an adult, and possibly make its way outside of the home. Once an official adult, the carpet beetle will only live for about another four to eight weeks.

Most adult carpet beetles are found outdoors, although they will go into homes in search of a place to lay their eggs. Unlike the larvae the adult carpet beetle mostly feeds on nectar and pollen from sources outside. Considering that carpet beetles feed on pollen they can often be found on flowers, and this is an instance of how carpet beetles can get inside homes. If you cut fresh flowers from your garden always check for carpet beetles, as their shape and size resembles the lady bug. Another difference of the adult from the larvae is that they actually like light, even night lights inside homes. This is another example of how they may enter a home when they see the night light, or any light, indoors during the night they will fly into the home. Another spot the adult carpet beetle likes to hang out is near windows. One more way a carpet beetles gets inside a home is on furniture that is being moved in. Whether it is coming out of storage or purchased slightly used, carpet beetle larvae or adults could already be nestled in it, and then will just migrate to other areas of your home once inside. Other than on or under furniture the carpet beetle can also be found on mattresses, pillows, in heating ducts, between floorboards, behind baseboards, and really any where that is hidden.

beetle carpet beetle larvae

This carpet beetle larvae is on the move in a bathroom, most likely looking for some towels or robes to feed on.

Knowing what carpet beetles eat and where they like to live there are some other interesting things about carpet beetles one should know. The carpet beetle is a very difficult pest to control within a home. Since the carpet beetle can find food in obscure places and disperse throughout the home it is challenging to get rid of them. At any time of noticing a carpet beetle inside your home it is best to contact your local pest control company. Fortunately for the adult carpet beetle they are good fliers which helps them enter and exit homes. Unfortunately them being good fliers is not helpful for people trying to handle the infestation problem. Two things to keep in mind about what carpet beetles eat are that they enjoy soiled or stained fabrics, i.e. dirty clothes. They also are able to digest keratin, which is a protein found in animal hairs and fibers. Some older furniture used to be stuffed or padded with horse hair; also other objects inside homes may have animal hair on or in them. Keeping in mind these bizarre things about carpet beetles can also be helpful when thinking of what can be done to prevent carpet beetles from causing too much damage with in your home.

Pictures from www.creativecommons.org

Beetle: The Most Common Carpet Beetle Varieties

Wednesday, October 21st, 2009

Carpet beetle varieties are actually very similar; even though the black carpet beetle is known as the most destructive of all of the varieties. The general characteristics of the black carpet beetle, varied carpet beetle, common carpet beetle, and the furniture carpet beetle are all very similar. From the larvae stage, to the food they eat, and to where they live all varieties of the carpet beetle are alike. The main difference between the four varieties are their physical traits, and how many generations they reproduce. Here are the physical characteristics and generation information on the varieties:

  • Black carpet beetle: The larvae are golden to dark brown, half an inch long, shaped like a carrot, and with bristles at the end of its body. Then as an adult the body is oval shaped, shiny, black, brownish legs, and ranges from one-eighth to three-sixth of an inch long. Produces one generation a year.
  • beetle carpet beetle most common varieties

    Side by side are the black carpet beetle larvae, and the black carpet beetle as an adult.

  • Varied carpet beetle: The larvae are light brown to dark brown, one-fourth of an inch, and have a wide rear end. As an adult the body is nearly round, gray with mixes of white to brown to yellow scales, ranges one-tenth of an inch to one-eighth of an inch, and has irregular black cross bands on it. Produces one generation a year.
  • beetle carpet beetle most common varieties

    This is a varied carpet beetle larvae.

    beetle carpet beetle most common varieties

    Here is an adult varied carpet beetle.

  • Common carpet beetle: The larvae are reddish brown tone, have an elongated oval shape, one-fourth of an inch long, and are covered with brownish-black hairs. Once as an adult its coloring becomes gray to black, has small white scales, a band of orange-reddish tone of scales down the middle of the back and around the eyes, and is one-tenth of an inch to one-eighth of an inch long. Produces up to four times a year.
  • beetle carpet beetle most common varieties

    Here is a common carpet beetle larvae.

    beetle carpet beetle most common varieties

    The reddish-orange stripe is a signature marking on the adult common carpet beetle.

  • Furniture carpet beetle: The larvae are covered in thick brown hair, have an elongated oval shape to them, and are one-fourth of an inch long. Finally as an adult it takes on a whitish checkered coloring with black spots out lined with yellowish-orange scales, its legs has yellow scales, and is one-sixteenth of an inch to one-eighth of an inch long. Produces up to four times a year.
  • beetle carpet beetle most common varieties

    Larvae always seem to be larger looking than the adult carpet beetles. This is the furniture carpet beetle, the larvae with lots of bristle looking hair and the checkered look of the adult.

Pictures from www.creativecommons.org

Beetle: Preventing Carpet Beetles From Infesting Your Home

Monday, October 19th, 2009

There are many things that can be done to help prevent carpet beetles from invading your house. Unlike preventing other pests there is not as much to do outside of your home. The reason is that carpet beetles are more interested in what is inside your home. The first and foremost thing to do is always keep your house clean. Keeping a clean house may seem easy, but you need to make sure that the house is being thoroughly cleaned as well. Here are some things to do to help prevent carpet beetles from living in your home.

  • Vacuuming is very important, make sure to use the extension to get in the cracks and corners of your floors and walls.
  • After vacuuming make sure to throw out the bag in case any carpet beetles are inside it.
  • Remove lint, hair, dead insects, and other debris from your house as often as you can. Things like lint build-up in your laundry room, and keep your hair brush as clean as possible.
  • Regularly clean rugs, draperies, upholstered furniture, closets, and other locations where carpet beetles may be found thoroughly.
  • Call professional carpet cleaners out to your home.
  • Be extra cautious with furniture, mattresses, and pillows that are stuffed with animal hair or feathers. If necessary discard them as the carpet beetles could be inside and you won’t be able to kill them. Or with something small like a pillow, the item can be frozen in order to kill the carpet beetles.
  • Dry clean or wash clothes in hot water.
  • Do not leave piles of dirty clothes around your house. Keep in a hamper and do wash frequently.
  • Store furs in colder places, even a professional storage facility.
  • If you have any mounted or stuffed game, such as elk, duck, or deer, clean on a regular basis. If the game is small enough, or you have a large freezer, freeze every once in a while for a week to kill any carpet beetles. Remember carpet beetles will feed on bone, also horns or antlers.

Spider: The Brown Recluse Spider

Wednesday, October 14th, 2009

The brown recluse spider can be hard to identify, as it is often mistaken for the wolf spider. The best way to identify the brown recluse spider is by its eyes. The brown recluse spider only has six eyes, where most spiders usually have eight eyes. The eyes of the brown recluse spider are arranged in three sets of two, in a semi-circle on the top of its head.

spider the brown recluse

Here is a close up of the brown recluse spider's face. The arrows are pointing to the three sets of eyes that form a semi-circle.

Also on the top of the body near the eyes is a darker brown spot in the shape of a violin. The violin distinction on the brown recluse spider is actually common on other spiders, therefore its eyes are the best way to correctly identify the brown recluse spider. Although, the brown recluse spider has also been given a second name because of the violin marking; the brown recluse spider can sometimes be referred to as the violin spider. Even though the violin marking can be seen on other spiders it seems to stand out more on the brown recluse, hence the second name.

Brown recluse spiders also get their name from their coloring. Generally the brown recluse spider is a tan to dark brown shade, and the color of their abdomen can vary from brown tones to yellow to even a yellow greenish tone. Other than the legs, the abdomen seems to be one of the larger parts making up the half an inch to three-fourths of an inch long brown recluse spider.

spider brown recluse spider

This full body shot of a brown recluse spider shows the violin marking on the top of the body.

Another part of the brown recluse’s name also has meaning to its identity as the brown recluse spider. Recluse means to hide, and that is one thing the brown recluse spider is known for. Hiding in areas within a home is very common, and also outdoors. Brown recluse spiders like to live in dark secluded areas like corners, crevices, and underneath objects. They also look for places to be warm and dry when searching for a new spot to settle down in, on, or under. Popular places for the brown recluse to hide are in areas or items that are not frequently used like storage, old clothes that aren’t worn, old shoes that aren’t worn, or under furniture. If a bite does occur it is usually when cleaning is being done and these areas are being disturbed, when they usually are not bothered. People need to be extra cautious when cleaning areas that have not been touched in a while.

The central Midwest is the most popular area to find brown recluse spiders. Brown recluse spiders can also be found as far South as Texas and in the East in Georgia and only as West as Nebraska. Some say the brown recluse spider has never been into the far West, like California, while others argue that the brown recluse has been spotted in California. There are many species of recluse spiders, and some of the other species have been known to live in the West, another issue that makes it hard to identify the brown recluse spiders from other recluses. The desert recluse and the Arizona recluse are some of the species that are in the West.

Brown recluse spiders will not bite unless they are disturbed or threatened by a person, so if you come across one do your best not to panic and go into kill the spider mode. A hiding brown recluse spider equals trouble with in a household; because most incidents of people being bitten by a brown recluse spider occur when a person finds a brown recluse while cleaning or going through items that haven’t been disturbed in a while. Many times if a brown recluse is discovered a person gets scared and that makes the brown recluse scared, and often tries to defend itself by biting. If you do come across a brown recluse in a situation like this and it happens to fall or land on you just try to shake it off of you. Hopefully it lands on your clothes, because it will only bite exposed flesh. Also try not to touch the spider, as touching is like an attack for the brown recluse. Again shaking the object the spider is on is a better way to remove it. Sometimes the brown recluse spider may even be hiding in something like a robe, towel, or shower curtain. While these objects that are used often, they can still be hiding spots for brown recluse spiders. Objects like these are all perfect examples of things to shake in order to remove the brown recluse spider. Avoiding a bite from a brown recluse can be easily done too, if the person remains calm and remembers some of these tips. Keep in mind that a brown recluse spider will not attack unless disturbed or feels threatened, and they are actually very non-aggressive spiders. If a bite does happen most people won’t realize it until after the fact, so if you start to have symptoms of a spider bite go to your doctor just in case. See more about spider bite symptoms on our spider bite basic first aid blog post.

Bites from a brown recluse spider can happen at any time, more so during the night when they are out and about; as they are nocturnal. In the daytime brown recluse spiders usually rest on their webs, which are just used for resting and holding the egg sac. In the day if the brown recluse if not on its web it is probably in a hiding spot, so be aware at all times of the day for the brown recluse hiding. Also at night is when the brown recluse hunts for its food, this activity is definitely something the brown recluse spider is aggressive about. Cockroaches, crickets, firebrats, and other soft-bodied insects are what brown recluse spiders hunt down for food. When hunting their prey the brown recluse spider will use it’s venom to paralyze the prey. Once the venom has been injected into the prey its insides will liquefy! Then the brown recluse spider will leave it be for awhile, as it dies, and then come back to eat it later. Even though brown recluse spiders enjoy hunting for their food, they can actually survive up to six months without food or water.

spider the brown recluse spider

These brown recluse spiderlings are hanging out on their mother's web. Soon enough they will be full grown adult brown recluse spiders.

Although brown recluse spiderlings need food to ensure they develop into adults. The brown recluse spiders mate mostly during May through June. The brown recluse spider has its own way to find a mate, as every species is a little different. When males are looking for a mate they search for her scent, usually the male can find the scent on her web or surfaces she has frequented. Once the male finds a female he wants to mate with he will then perform some moves that are like a courtship dance for the brown recluse spider. If the female is impressed, mating will occur. From there the female will lay anywhere from 40-50 eggs in a sac, and will spin a web to attach her egg sac to. Three to six weeks later the eggs will hatch into spiderlings. From then it will be about a year for the spiderlings to become adults. Once the brown recluse spider is an adult it will live two to four years. From that point the cycle will start all over as the new adults will start mating, and continue the population of brown recluse spiders.

Pictures from www.creativecommons.org